Janette K. Grönfors about Roma women's clothes in Finnland

Romane Romnja:
Janette, after completing your social work studies, you worked for several years as the national coordinator of “Against Racism” at the Red Cross in Finland. Before that, you were a very committed activist, having carried out a lot of projects in Finland and helped to develop the first Roma women’s umbrella organization on a European level – IRWIN – the International Roma Women’s Network.

Janette K. Grönfors:
There are several Romany groups in Sweden and all of them have different styles of traditional Romany clothing. In practice, you usually see these traditional costumes at occasions such as weddings, parties, and funerals.
Basically, in Finland we have only one Roma group, “Kale,” meaning that if you see our traditional dress on somebody somewhere else in world, that person is related to the Finnish Romani group (either ethnically or by marriage).
Finnish Roma are the only ones who wear that particular kind of velvet skirt and that style of shirt; that I know for sure.

Romane Romnja:
We are proud that we have known you for almost 20 years and that you are always ready to support us with your contributions!

Further informations: Webiste of the National Museum of Finland

Concetta Sarachella In Arte Sara Cetty, Modedesignerin über traditionelle Romnja Kleidung

Traditionelle Romnja Kleidung - Abruzzese Stil

Die meisten italienischen Romnja hängen sehr an ihrer Tracht. So sehr, dass die Roma-Frauen Romnja, trotz ihrer Emanzipation, weiterhin bei allen Gelegenheiten tragen – vor allem die langen Kleider und Röcke. Die Roma Abruzzese Kleider/Röcke sind von mehreren Klippen gekennzeichnet. Diese Klippen befinden sich auf dem oberen und unteren Rand des Rocks. Zu der Bluse: Die Ärmel der Bluse zeichnen sich durch ihre besondere Weite und die intensiven Farbtöne aus. In der Antike wurde ein solches Kleid von der Braut bei ihrer Hochzeit getragen. Die Besonderheit dieses Kleides ist sowohl die Qualität des Gewebes als auch das Stoff-Design.

EDUromnja im Gespräch mit Santino Spinelli, Musiker, Buchautor und Universitätsdozent

Santino über traditionelle Romnja-Kleidung in Italien

Die typische Kleidung der Abruzzi Romnja ist der lange Rock, der von den Roma-Frauen in Handarbeit genäht wird, in der traditionellen Art und Weise, wie sie es von ihren Ur-Urgroßmüttern gelernt haben. Jede Romnji näht ihre Kleidung selbst.
Es gibt verschiedene Arten von „Romano jurvibbé“, das ist die typische Kleidung der Abruzi Romnja: ein Kleidungsstück aus einem langem Rock und einer Bluse in der gleichen Farbe und aus dem gleichen Stoff.
Rock und Bluse können dabei aber auch aus verschiedenen Farben und Stoffen sein.
Der Rock kann einfach sein, die Stoffe bunt oder unifarbig. Ein typischer Romano-Rock wird von den Abruzzi Romnia „trip-di-vakh“ oder „punto smog“ genannt.
Die Bluse kann sehr weite Ärmel haben, aber auch einfach sein. Eine typische Abruzzi Romnja-Bluse hat weite Ärmel und ihr unterer Teil wickelt sich um die Taille. Die Kleidung dient dazu, die Frauen, die Romnja, zu bedecken und nicht dem Zur-Schau-Stellen.
Die Roma-Ethik ist sehr streng in der Kleidungsordnung. Den Romnja wird mit der „Romano jurbibbé“ der Beitritt in die Romnja-Gemeinschaft attestiert, die Zugehörigkeit und ihr ethnischer Stolz.
The typical clothing of Abruzzi Romnja includes a long skirt that is handmade by Roma women in the traditional way, which they would have learned from their great-grandmothers. Each Romnji sews her clothes herself.

There are different types of “Romano jurvibbé,” that is, the typical clothing of Abruzzi Romnja.One garment consists of a long skirt and blouse in the same color and the same fabric.
However, a skirt and blouse made from different colors and fabrics can also be worn. The skirt can be simple and the fabrics can be one color or many. The typical Romano skirt is known as “trip-di-vakh” or “punto smog” among the Abruzzi Romnia.
Blouses can have very wide sleeves, or they can be simple. A typical Abruzzi Romnja blouse has wide sleeves and the lower part wraps around the waist. The most important thing is not to show too much cleavage - this clothing is designed to avoid being too revealing. Roma ethics are very strict when it comes to clothing.
By wearing the “Romano jurbibbé,” the Romnja demonstrate their affiliation to the Romnja community and their ethnic pride.

Weitere Informationen:

Weblinks:

Santino Spinelli - Wikipedia

Gedicht von Santino Spinelli

Videos:

Albanien

Manjola Veizi on Romany clothes in Albania

Related to the short documentary mentioned above, these are some of the traditional outfits of Roma women and girls that are gradually disappearing. Nowadays it is only older Roma women who make these outfits by hand; the girls of this community are more integrated into society and so are less interested in these dresses and keeping the tradition alive.
These traditional outfits are exhibited at traditional Roma fairs, which are often organized not only in Korçë but also in other cities where this community has a significant presence.

Macedonian

Ramiza Sakip on Romany clothes in Macedonia

Romane Romnja:
Ramiza, you have been an activist for over 25 years. You have initiated the Roma youth movement in Europe, and you continue to contribute to and develop it further. You have also made a significant contribution to the emancipation of Roma women in Macedonia and in Europe. Since the 1990s, you have been an expert on the Council of Europe for various disciplines. We are looking forward to your contribution on the traditional clothing of Roma women in Macedonia.

Ramiza Sakip:
The traditional items of clothing worn by Roma women in Macedonia are known as “Dimije.” Dimije date from the 13th century - the time of the Ottoman empire. In these modern times, Dimije still have their traditional style but have been updated with a modern look and richer materials including stones and decorative elements. Usually, the materials for these traditional clothes come from Turkey, Morocco, and Arabia. The traditional clothes are made by female Roma tailors, as well as by tailors from Albania and Turkey. Roma women and girls wear this clothing for celebrations such as weddings, engagements, and the circumcision of Roma children. Roma brides always wear white Dimije. These traditions have lasted for more than eight centuries.

Romane Romnja:
Thank you for your contribution!

Kosovo

Saska Jovanovic-Fetahi and Agim Saiti on Romany clothes in Kosovo

Romane Romnja:
Saska, you lived in Pristina with your family for several years, as a child and as a young woman, and met your husband Beki there. So it is safe to say that you have a close connection to the city of Pristina.
Since the 1990s, you have been part of the diaspora - living in Italy with your husband and three children.
Through your husband and his family, you got to know the music, clothes, and lifestyle of the Kosovo Roma. You have been an activist since your arrival in Italy, and you are committed to helping to achieve better conditions for the foreign Roma in Italy.
In particular, you are committed to women’s rights.
You were the first Romni to set up a network of women in Italy and continue to motivate Romnja to become activists.
You are the founder of ROWNI – the Roma Women’s Network of Italy - and have acted and performed in many different European projects, for example, “Marry when you are ready.”
We are looking forward to your contribution on the subject of the traditional clothing of Roma women in Kosovo.
Saska made this contribution together with Agim Saiti.

Saska Jovanovic-Fetahi and Agim Saiti:
Kosovo Roma took on the fashions of the Turks, who ruled Kosovo for 500 years. After the departure of the Turks, the Muslim religion continued to be practiced and the traditional items of clothing - pants, waistcoats, aprons - continued to be worn.
Over time, however, Albanians lost touch with traditions such as Sunnah and the wearing of pantaloons and other traditional items at weddings, as did the Roma Muslims in Kosovo. Of course, styles changed with the years, with new models sometimes appearing as often as every month.
For example, the new style of shalwar known as “salvare,” where the trousers have a belt and are combined with the shirt and vest – this is a very modern look reminiscent of high fashion.
Orthodox Roma from Kosovo did not have a typical folk costume of their own, and they wore the same clothing as the “gadje” - the non-Roma population. However, after the 1999 war, which lead to the immigration of Kosovan Roma into Serbia, traditional Albanian music became more popular and, with it, the wearing of traditional Roma Muslim costumes for dancing at weddings.

Romane Romnja:
Saska and Agim, thank you very much for your informative contribution!

EDUromnja im Gespräch mit Zita Moldovan,Schauspielerin, TV-Moderatorin und Designerin

Schauspielerin, TV-Moderatorin und Designerin

Zita Moldovan über traditionelle Romnja-Kleidung in Rumänien

Mein Name ist Zita Moldovan und ich bin in Rumänien geboren.Ich bin Schauspielerin und TV-Moderatorin einer Sendung, die einmal wöchentlich im Rumänischen National Fernsehen ausgestrahlt wird.
Diese Sendung wird von der Roma-Partei „Pro Europa“ produziert und hat das Ziel, die Roma-Herkunft positiv darzustellen und zu fördern. Auch die Kultur und Tradition der Roma in Rumänien sollen positiv präsentiert und gefördert werden.
Seit 10 Jahren gibt es ein Frauenforum, in dem verschiedene Frauenorganisationen aktiv sind. Das Frauenforum zielt darauf ab, Roma-Frauen in die Gesellschaft miteinzubinden. Ihre Themen werden auch in der o. g. Sendung platziert.
Es wird versucht, mit mehreren kulturellen Vereinigungen der Roma künstlerisch zusammenzuarbeiten, die Kultur zu fördern, zum Beispiel wie der Kulturverein Amphiteatrom, das erste Roma-Theater in Rumänien, der „die stürmische Nacht“ von Ion Luca Caragiale aufgeführt hat.
Mitgewirkt hat Sorin Sandu, auch Roma und Schauspieler, Regisseur und TV-Moderator, und viele andere Kollegen. Wir haben zusammen mit den beiden anderen Romnja-Schauspielerinnen Mihaela Dragan und Elena Sonntag eine feministische Truppe unter dem Namen „Giuvlipen“ gegründet, die mehrere Stücke produziert hat.
Die zuletzt präsentierte Produktion „Gadjo Dilo“ will Vorurteile und Stereotypen über Roma-Frauen über Kunst und Kabarett abbauen.
Mode ist eine alte Leidenschaft von mir, und am 9. Dezember werde ich meine eigene Kreation von Romnja-Kleidung vorstellen und platzieren.
Ich kombiniere Verschiedenes auf der Grundlage der traditionellen Roma-Kleidung, die das Symbol unserer Tradition ist und über die unsere Roma-Werte erhalten werden sollen.

Weitere Informationen:

EDUromnja im Gespräch mit Indira Bajramovic vom Verband „Better Future“

Indira Bajramovic über traditionelle Romnja Kleidung in Bosnien und Herzegowina

In Bosnien und Herzegowina existiert kein Museum, in dem es eine ethnografische Roma-Ausstellung zu sehen gibt. Leider hat unser Verein wegen der begrenzten Ressourcen, die für Kultur und Tradition zur Verfügung gestellt werden, keine Möglichkeit, eine solche Ausstellung zu initiieren.

Blumen und die Farbe Rot sind Merkmale der traditionellen Romnja-Kostüme. Rot ist eine signifikante Farbe in der Roma-Tradition.
Die traditionellen Roma-Kostüme sind der bosnischen traditionellen Kleidung sehr ähnlich.
Roma-Frauen kleiden sich heute wie andere Frauen, nach Modetrends und der Umgebung angepasst, in der sie leben, während das traditionelle Kostüm nur zu besonderen Anlässen getragen wird.

Informative Weblinks:

Romane Romnja talk with Aldina Dendic-Fafulovic on Romany clothes in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Romane Romnja:
Aldina, you are a mother and housewife and feel very happy in your new role. Before that, you were an activist, a candidate for political office in the city council of your hometown, Vitez, and you were also a long-term employee for OSCE in Bosnia-Herzegovina. You are still an active member of the folklore dance group “Romi” in Vitez. This NGO was founded in 1998 by your father, Adil Fafulovic, who is a certified choreographer.

Aldina Denic-Fafulovic and her father, Adil Fafulovic, have prepared the following contribution:

Once upon a time, Romani women wore colorful pantaloons, known as “Dimije,” blouses with long sleeves, and colorful scarves on their heads.

Men wore Bosnian-style black trousers or with shallower tour between the legs, a red or maroon fez, and shirts were “bjele”.

Many Roma in Bosnia wore the colorful wide skirts called “fistano,” which are now known as “Roma skirts.” They are mostly made of thin, light, colorful material that is styled into the form of a narrow waist expanding into wide pleats. For example, a skirt with a 50 cm waist would measure at least 150 cm at the hem. This style enhances the colorful skirts, making them even more visually interesting.

Blouses with long, wide sleeves were also worn, although some chose to wear short boleros with short, wide sleeves. On their heads, they would wear scarves tied at the back of the head, with one piece loose. As many Roma games are played without socks and shoes, people would go barefoot.

Around their waists, women would wear colorful shawls with fringes, which, along with their jewelry, were considered to be the high point of a Roma woman’s outfit.

Men wore shirts, usually black or white, with wide sleeves, and a hat or scarf tied around the head in the form of trake. “Hlace” – tight fitting trousers that were usually black – were also worn.

Romane Romnja, Aldina and Adil, thank you very much for your contributio

Spain, the gitana dress: a challenge for ethnology.

Ana Gimenez Adelantado on Romany clothes in Spain

Since the fifteenth century, images of gypsies who arrived in Europe from India have been widespread. Oriental images of colorful dresses with exotic turbans have been reproduced a thousand times, emphasizing their romanticism.

The gypsy dress, as it is known today, first appeared at fairs in the nineteenth century, where the women of rancher and peasant families wore a kind of ruffled dressing gown as a work garment. At the time, it was a way of dressing typical of village women, or women from the lower social classes.
However, over time it became very popular, and there is no Andalusian woman today who does not have at least one flamenco dress. Its popularity is not limited to Seville - it has become a symbol of the whole of Spain.

The cut of the garment is known as “the guitar body,” meaning that it is fitted on the upper part of the body and looser towards the legs to facilitate movement during the dance. It is long, generally reaching the feet, and is usually adorned with carnation-like ruffles on the skirt and sleeves.
The dress is decorated with a wide range of colors and prints of all types, but the most characteristic is that of moles. All this is designed to attract attention during the dance. Women in gypsy dress almost always have their hair pulled up into a bun and a comb with a flower in their hair.
This is complemented by a shawl resting on the shoulders. In addition, they adorn themselves with bracelets and long earrings known as “tendrils” and usually wear an abundance of makeup, designed to highlight the beauty of the Andalusian brunette.

The gypsy costume is just one reflection of the great impact that gypsy culture, its aesthetics, art, and dress has had on Spanish culture, to the point of becoming a symbol of its identity.
This is why it is a challenge for ethnology to investigate this process in depth; it is certainly a topic that deserves the full attention of researchers working in the fields of culture, art, and folklore.

Ana Gimenez Adelantado

Weitere Bilder und Eindrücke: